Wine Savant - Wines that Rock

by: John Ney - Wine Savant Magazine (Sept/Oct 2005 issue) john@winesavantmag.com

Highly Recommended
These are the wines for this issue that most impressed the tasting panel that was convened. This group is inclusive of high-scoring wines, and those that are a “Must Buy” based on the review and the price.
Cool Finds
You’ll find these Recommended wines with exceptional reviews that aren’t wallet busters. The feeling of finding these wines is comparable to being “bumped up” to First Class on a Coach Ticket – Very cool!
Great Values
Wines with good reviews and represent a best value based upon their suggested retail price. These can be everyday wines without breaking the bank.
Prices indicated reflect the average retail price throughout the Great Lakes Region. Some areas will differ, such as Ohio, due to State regulations.

Understanding the Wine Savant 100 Point System
95 - 100 Superlative rare finds, wines that literally rock
90 - 94 Exceptional examples of their type or variety
86 - 89 Highly recommended
80 - 85 Recommended impressive juice
70 - 79 Pleasant wine but it won’t get you a second date
60 - 69 You will have to ask yourself, “Why would I drink this?”
59 & below Don’t even think about it!

91 - Tabor Hill 2004 Riesling
(12% ABV) – Southwest Michigan
One can only think of a beautiful woman when sipping this Riesling. Clear and pleasant to the eye, beautiful crisp honeysuckle and floral aroma, voluptuous body that is velvety smooth yet sassy, and a nice long finish that hangs with you. You’ll want to drink it now.

90 - Dr. Konstantin Frank 2004 Johannisberg Riesling Semi-Dry New York Finger Lakes - $15.95
Won GOLD in the 2005 Riverside International Competition in California, one of the most prestigious competitions in the Country. Delicate color with beautiful honeysuckle and orange blossom aroma, a fresh yet sophisticated fruity pear flavor with nice balance and a long soft finish. This is in short supply, so if you find it, STOCK UP!!

Cool Finds
87 - Firelands 2004 Isle St. George Riesling (11.5% ABV) – Western Lake Erie, Ohio – $8.99
Light clear appearance with delicate fruity citrus and apple aromas, smooth peach apricot & citrus flavors on the tongue with a nice refreshingly clean finish. A very versatile wine paired with everything from a spicy entrée to baked apple cobbler. This is a very impressive vino and under 10 bucks. Widely available at supermarkets and wine retailers.

86 - Warner Vineyards NV Semi-Dry Riesling – Southwest Michigan
Nice golden color with scents of kiwi and green apple in the aroma. A very fruity flavor that is well balanced and it has a soft refreshing finish. After a couple of complimentary comments from a couple of the tasters, this bottle disappeared into the photographer’s gear bag. Available at select retailers.

85 - Thirsty Owl 2003 Limited Edition Riesling (10.5%ABV) New York Finger Lakes
Light Golden color with beautiful legs and a sweet pear juice aroma with a ripe delicious grapefruit and tangerine taste and a clean finish that starts off tart and trails off dry. Available at the winery and through select retailers.

Great Values
83 - Klingshirn White Riesling (NV) (12% ABV) – Central Lake Erie, Ohio – $8.99
Nice apple and citrus aromas, a rich apricot lime flavor that rolls off your tongue in a nice clean finish. As a Third-Generation wine maker, Lee Klingshirn has a vast array of knowledge of his customers, the vineyard and grapes, and he puts it all together right in making some very fine wine. Available only at the winery.
82 - Pelee Island Winery Late Harvest Riesling (12.0 ABV) – Southwest Ontario, Canada – $9.99
A golden color with subtle spicy aromas and flavor bursting of fruit. Has a crisp dry finish. Just a great bottle of wine for warmer weather. Available at select retailers.

More Great Buys
90 - Dr. Konstantin Frank 2003 Riesling New York Finger Lakes – $12.95
Light color almost clear with a pleasant ginger aroma. Bursting with the flavor of tart pear with a nice dry, but fruity, finish. The most award winning wine in New York State and was aAwarded a DOUBLE GOLD in the Great Lakes Wine Competition held in Michigan last year. Rare and difficult to find.

86 - Markko 2000 Johannisberg Riesling Reserve (11.5% ABV) - Eastern Lake Erie, Ohio
A deep golden color with floral honeyed aroma. This is a traditional German style Riesling that is full bodied with a flavor of sweet granny smith apples. What set this apart is the difference in vintage from other wines reviewed and the production method that owner/wine-maker Arnie Esterer utilizes. Arnie, who learned his trade under the legendary Dr. Konstantin Frank and has stockpiled his own extensive array of accolades, ages his Rieslings in stainless steel tanks for three years prior to bottling, giving them full bodied and very distinct characteristics. Available at the Markko tasting room and a few select retailers.

83 - Debonne 2004 Grand River Valley Riesling (11.0% ABV) – Eastern Lake Erie, Ohio – $8.99
Light golden straw color with a clean, spicy yet floral aroma and a cornucopia of apple, pear and citrus flavors. An elegant and well balanced wine that displayed an impressive, almost complex, character. Tony Debevc is one of only a few formally trained wine makers in the State of Ohio, and that is evidenced by the consistency of his well produced wines. Widely available at super-markets and wine retailers.

83 - Mon Ami 2004 American Riesling (11.5% ABV) – Western Lake Erie, Ohio
A brilliantly clear Riesling, with very light subtle aroma and flavors. Apple is the dominating flavor that gives way to a fruity finish that refreshes. The perfect answer, when looking for a fruity light wine that won’t overpower your taste buds. Makes for a wonderful summertime wine.

81- Ferrante NV American Riesling (11.0% ABV) – Eastern Lake Erie, Ohio – $8.99
A more subtle aroma and a lighter taste than most of the other Rieslings. The flavor is prevalent of sweet apples and pears. The other distinct characteristic that sets this apart is that it’s well balanced with a nice long finish; where the flavors that were originally subtle linger. Widely available at supermarkets and wine retailers.

In a blind tasting of Great Lakes area Rieslings, we placed a very well regarded German Riesling to the mix to see how they stacked up. Many of the Rieslings identified above scored higher than the German Riesling both in the tasting panel’s point score and in all the individually written comments. It is quite impressive to see that these Great Lakes Rieslings performed exceptionally well and many were preferred to a great benchmark German wine.

German Riesling
84 - Huesgen 2002 Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Q.B.A. (9% ABV) Germany
Nice straw color that is clean and brilliant, the dominating taste of citrus is very pleasing with a sweet spicy, but pleasant, finish. Definitely a very balanced and enjoyable wine. Not widely distributed.

Ice Wines
Warner Vineyards 2002 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine (12% ABV) - Southwest Michigan for a 375 ml.
Beautiful color with a pleasant aroma, hints of honey and apricot that leads to a candied burnt sugar goodness with a rich body and long finish. Enjoy this Warner Vineyards Ice Wine with a hot cup of coffee.

Black Star Farms 2002 A Capella Ice Wine (10% ABV) – Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan for a 375 ml.
Light golden color with sweet buttery aromas of vanilla. Nice body and flavors of peaches and vanilla. A long flavorful finish that lingers on. It’s not just a dessert wine, it can be dessert in itself.

Mon Ami 2004 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine (10.5% ABV) - Western Lake Erie, Ohio for a 375 ml.
A clear amber color, with a mild aroma of lemons and oranges. As soon as this sweet taste hits your tongue the flavor of the Vidal varietal comes out in a pleasingly tart way, and the flavor stays with you with an extraordinarily long finish.

Tabor Hill 2004 Vidal Blanc Ice Wine (12% ABV) - Southwest Michigan for a 375 ml.
Light golden color with that memorable Vidal aroma of sweet citrus. The intensity of this beautiful dessert wine hits you as soon as that firm drop of sweetness hits the tip of your tongue. Finishes velvety smooth.

Ice Wines
Cool Finds
Lemon Creek Winery 2003 Moon Shadow Ice Wine (10% ABV) – Southwest Michigan for a 375 ml.
An ice wine made primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, which is not something you see very often. However this one gets it done right. A pretty rose color with a pleasant aroma of pink saltwater taffy, a pleasing strawberry caramel taste with a soft finish. This is a delightful dessert wine

Ice Wines
Great Values
Klingshirn NV Delaware Lake Erie Iced Wine (10% ABV) – Central Lake Erie, Ohio – $18.99 for 375 ml.
Deep amber color that is clear, with a fruity orange citrus aroma. The flavor is reminiscent of tangerine lifesavers, with a sweet smooth finish. It’s rare to find an ice wine made out of the Delaware grape, but it certainly comes out beautifully here.

The Klingshirn “Iced Wine” is entitled differently due to a modified method of production. The traditional method of making ice wine is to pick the grapes after a frost, where they have frozen on the vine. Klinshirn freezes the grapes after they have been picked which maximizes production and makes this product a BEST VALUE.

Newly Released Wines from around the Great Lakes Region

86 – Tabor Hill 2004 Kerner (Riesling Hybrid) (12% ABV) – Southwest Michigan
Brilliantly clear color with a fruity aroma of pear and citrus. A nicely balanced wine full of fruit that finishes velvety smooth to very dry. This is a great varietal. The Kerner varietal originated as a cross between Trollinger and Riesling. The wines resemble a Riesling, in that they are racy, with a light varietal bouquet of their own and substantial body. The Kerner has a subtle nutmeg note that makes the bouquet especially interesting and enticing. High quality products such as this Tabor Hill Kerner have many pairing options, and is exceptionally good with fish, bright meat or spicy cheese. Visit www.winesavantmag.com